Heat stroke is an emergency that requires immediate recognition and prompt treatment. Dogs do not tolerate high temperatures as well as humans. They depend upon rapid breathing to exchange warm air for cool air. Accordingly when air temperature is close to body temperature, cooling by rapid breathing is not and efficient process. Dogs with airway disease also have difficulty with excess heat.
Common situations that predispose to overheating or heat stroke in dogs are:
1. Being left in a car in hot weather.
2. Being confined on concrete runs; chained without shade in hot weather.
3. Being of a short-nosed breed, especially a Bulldog or Pug.
4. Being muzzled while put under a dryer (this can happen in a grooming parlor).
5. Suffering from airway disease or any condition that impairs breathing.
Heat stroke begins with rapid, frantic, noisy breathing. The tongue and mucus membranes are bright red, the saliva is thick and tenacious and the dog frequently vomits. Its rectal temperature is high, sometimes over 106 degrees F. The cause of the problem usually is evident by the typical appearance of the dog; it can be confirmed by taking its temperature.
If the condition is allowed to go unchecked, the dog becomes unsteady and staggers, has diarrhea that often is bloody and becomes progressively weaker. Coma and death ensue.
Treatment: Emergency measures must begin at once. Mild cases respond to moving the dog to a cooler surrounding, such as an air-conditioned building or car. If the dog's temperature is over 104 degrees F, or if unsteady on its feet, the dog should be cooled by immersion in a tub of cold water. If this is impossible, hose your dog down with a garden hose. For a temperature over 106 degrees F, or if the dog is near collapse, give a cold water enema. A more rapid temperature drop is imperative. Cool to a rectal temperature of 103 degrees F.
Heat stroke can be associated with swelling of the throat. This aggravates the problem. A cortisone injection by your veterinarian may be required to treat this.
Prevention:
1. Do not expose dogs with airway disease or impaired breathing to prolonged heat.
2. Restrict exercise during the heat of the day in summer.
3. Breed dogs in air-conditioned quarters.
4. Crate a dog only in an open wire cage.
5. Provide shade and cool water to dogs living in outdoor runs.
Saturday, September 8, 2007
Dogs & Snake Bites
If your dog is bitten by a snake, there may be no cause for concern, as the majority of snakes are nonpoisonous. The bites of harmless snakes show teeth marks in the shape of a horseshoe, but there are no fang marks.
In the United States, there are four poisonous varieties: Cottonmouth moccasins, rattlesnakes, copperheads and coral snakes. The diagnosis of poisonous snake bite is made by the appearance of the bite, by the behavior of the animal and by identification of the species of snake. (Kill it first, if possible.)
Pit Vipers (Rattlesnakes/Moccasins/Copperheads)
Identify these species by their large arrow-shaped heads, pits below and between the eyes, elliptical pupils, rough scales and the presence of fangs in the upper jaws.
The bite: There are two puncture wounds in the skin (fang marks). Signs of local reaction appear quickly and include swelling, excruciating pain, redness and hemorrhages in the skin.
Behavior of the animal: Signs and symptoms depend on the size and species of the snake, location of the bite and amount of toxin absorbed into the system. The first signs are extreme restlessness, panting, drooling and weakness. They are followed by diarrhea, collapse, sometimes seizures, shock and. in severe cases, death.
Except for the coral snake, all poisonous species in North America are pit vipers. Note the elliptical pupil, pit below the eye, large tangs and characteristic bite.
Coral Snake
Identify this snake by its rather small size, small head with black nose and vivid colored bands of red, yellow, white and black-the red and yellow bands always next to each other. Fangs are present in the upper jaw.
The bite: There is less severe local reaction but the pain is excruciating. Look for the fang marks.
Behavior of the animal: Coral snake venom primarily is neurotoxic. Signs include vomiting, diarrhea, urinary incontinence, paralysis, convulsions and coma.
Treatment of All Bites: First identify the snake and look at the bite. If it appears your dog has been bitten by a poisonous snake, proceed as follows:
1. Restrain the dog. Snake bites are extremely painful.
2. Apply a flat tourniquet above the bite. It should not be as tight as an arterial tourniquet (see Wounds) but should be tight enough to keep venous blood from returning to the heart.
3. Using a knife or razor blade, make parallel cuts one-quarter inch deep through the fang marks. On a leg, make them up and down. Blood should ooze from the wound. If not, loosen the tourniquet.
4. Apply mouth suction unless you have a cut or open sore in your mouth. Spit out the blood. If poison is swallowed, the stomach will inactivate it. Continue for thirty minutes.
5. Loosen the tourniquet for thirty seconds every half hour.
6. Keep the dog quiet. Excitement, exercise and struggling increase the rate of absorption. Carry your dog to the veterinarian.
Specific antivenoms are available through veterinarians. Snake bites become infected. Antibiotics and dressings are indicated.
In the United States, there are four poisonous varieties: Cottonmouth moccasins, rattlesnakes, copperheads and coral snakes. The diagnosis of poisonous snake bite is made by the appearance of the bite, by the behavior of the animal and by identification of the species of snake. (Kill it first, if possible.)
Pit Vipers (Rattlesnakes/Moccasins/Copperheads)
Identify these species by their large arrow-shaped heads, pits below and between the eyes, elliptical pupils, rough scales and the presence of fangs in the upper jaws.
The bite: There are two puncture wounds in the skin (fang marks). Signs of local reaction appear quickly and include swelling, excruciating pain, redness and hemorrhages in the skin.
Behavior of the animal: Signs and symptoms depend on the size and species of the snake, location of the bite and amount of toxin absorbed into the system. The first signs are extreme restlessness, panting, drooling and weakness. They are followed by diarrhea, collapse, sometimes seizures, shock and. in severe cases, death.
Except for the coral snake, all poisonous species in North America are pit vipers. Note the elliptical pupil, pit below the eye, large tangs and characteristic bite.
Coral Snake
Identify this snake by its rather small size, small head with black nose and vivid colored bands of red, yellow, white and black-the red and yellow bands always next to each other. Fangs are present in the upper jaw.
The bite: There is less severe local reaction but the pain is excruciating. Look for the fang marks.
Behavior of the animal: Coral snake venom primarily is neurotoxic. Signs include vomiting, diarrhea, urinary incontinence, paralysis, convulsions and coma.
Treatment of All Bites: First identify the snake and look at the bite. If it appears your dog has been bitten by a poisonous snake, proceed as follows:
1. Restrain the dog. Snake bites are extremely painful.
2. Apply a flat tourniquet above the bite. It should not be as tight as an arterial tourniquet (see Wounds) but should be tight enough to keep venous blood from returning to the heart.
3. Using a knife or razor blade, make parallel cuts one-quarter inch deep through the fang marks. On a leg, make them up and down. Blood should ooze from the wound. If not, loosen the tourniquet.
4. Apply mouth suction unless you have a cut or open sore in your mouth. Spit out the blood. If poison is swallowed, the stomach will inactivate it. Continue for thirty minutes.
5. Loosen the tourniquet for thirty seconds every half hour.
6. Keep the dog quiet. Excitement, exercise and struggling increase the rate of absorption. Carry your dog to the veterinarian.
Specific antivenoms are available through veterinarians. Snake bites become infected. Antibiotics and dressings are indicated.
Chemical Poisoning - FIRST AID
Sodium Fluroacetate (1080)
This chemical, used as a rat poison, is mixed with cereal, bran and other rat feeds. It is so potent that cats and dogs can be poisoned just by eating the dead rodent. The onset is sudden and begins with vomiting followed by excitation, straining to urinate or defecate, an aimless staggering gait, atypical fits or true convulsions and then collapse. Seizures are not triggered by external stimuli as are those of strychnine poisoning.
Treatment: Immediately after the dog ingests the poison, induce vomiting. Care and handling is the same as for strychnine.
Arsenic
Arsenic is combined with metaldehyde in slug and snail baits, and may appear in ant poisons, weed killers and insecticides. Arsenic is also a common Impurity found in many chemicals. Death can occur quickly before there is time to observe the symptoms. In more protracted cases the signs are thirst, drooling, vomiting, staggering, intense abdominal pain, cramps, diarrhea, paralysis and death. The breath of the dog will have a strong smell of garlic.
Treatment: Induce vomiting. A specific antidote is available but requires professional use. Metaldehyde - This poison (often combined with arsenic) is used commonly in rat, snail and slug baits. The signs of toxicity are excitation, drooling and slobbering, uncoordinated gait, muscle tremors and weakness that leads to inability to stand in a few hours. The tremors are not triggered by external stimuli.
Treatment: Immediately after the dog ingests the poison, induce vomiting. The care and handling are the same as for strychnine.
Lead
Lead is found in insecticides and is a base for many paints used commercially. Intoxication occurs primarily in puppies and young dogs that chew on substances coated with a lead paint. Other sources of lead are linoleum, batteries, plumbing materials, putty, lead foil, solder, golf balls and some roofing materials. Lead poisoning can occur in older dogs after ingestion of insecticides containing lead. A chronic form does occur.
Acute poisoning begins with abdominal colic and vomiting. A variety of central nervous system signs are possible. They include fits, uncoordinated gait, excitation, continuous barking, attacks of hysteria, weakness, stupor and blindness. Chewing and champing fits might be mistaken for the encephalitis of distemper, especially in young dogs.
Treatment: When ingestion is recent, induce vomiting. Otherwise, coat the bowel as described above. Specific antidotes are available through your veterinarian.
Phosphorus
This chemical is present in rat and roach poisons, fireworks, matches and matchboxes. A poisoned dog's breath may have a garlic odor. The first signs of intoxication are vomiting and diarrhea. They may be followed by a free interval, then by recurrent vomiting, cramps, and pain in the abdomen, convulsions and coma. There is no specific antidote. Treat as you would for strychnine.
Zinc Phosphide
This substance also is found in rat poisons. Intoxication causes central nervous system depression, labored breathing, vomiting (often of blood), weakness, convulsions and death. There is no specific antidote. Treat as you would for strychnine.
Warfarin (Decon, Pindone)
Warfarin is incorporated into grain feeds for use as a rat and mouse poison. It causes death by interfering with the blood clotting mechanism. This leads to spontaneous bleeding. There are no observable signs of warfarin poisoning until the dog begins to pass blood in the stool or urine, bleeds from the nose or develops hemorrhages beneath the gums and skin. The dog may be found dead with no apparent cause. A single dose of warfarin is not as serious as repeated doses.
Treatment: Induce vomiting. Vitamin K (for clotting) is a specific antidote. It is given intramuscularly (or in cases where there are no symptoms it can be given by mouth as a preventative).
Antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol)
Poisoning with antifreeze is not uncommon because ethylene glycol has a sweet taste that appeals to dogs and cats. In dogs, a toxic dose is one half teaspoonful per pound body weight. Signs of toxicity, which appear suddenly, are vomiting, uncoordinated gait (seems "drunk"), weakness, mental depression, coma and death in twelve to thirty-six hours. Convulsions are unusual. Dogs that recover from the acute phase may have damage to the kidneys and go on to kidney failure.
Treatment: Induce vomiting. Coat the bowel to prevent further absorption. Intensive care in an animal hospital may prevent kidney complications.
Organophosphates and Carbamates
These substances are used on dogs to kill fleas and other parasites. The common ones are dichlorvos, ectoral and sevin, but there are others. They also are used in garden sprays and in some dewormers. Improper application of insecticides to the dog can lead to absorption of a toxic dose through the skin. These drugs effect the nervous system primarily. For more information, see SKIN: Insecticides.
Treatment: For topical insecticides, bathe your dog immediately using warm soapy water to remove residual compounds from the coat. Call your veterinarian.
Chlorinated Hydrocarbons
These compounds, like the organophosphates, are incorporated into some insecticide preparations for use on the dog. The common products in veterinary use are chiordane, toxaphene, lindane and methoxychior. The treatment is the same as for organophosphates.
Corrosives (Acid and Alkali)
Corrosives and caustics are found in household cleaners, drain decloggers and commercial solvents. They cause burns of the mouth, esophagus and stomach. Severe cases are associated with acute perforation, or late stricture, of the esophagus and stomach.
Treatment: If acid is ingested, rinse out your dog's mouth. Give an antacid (Milk of Magnesia or Pepto-Bismol) at the rate of one to two teaspoons per five pounds body weight. If an alkali, use vinegar or lemon juice. Vinegar is mixed one part to four parts of water. The amount to give is judged by the size of the dog. Do not induce vomiting; this could result in rupture of the stomach or burns of the esophagus.
Petroleum Products (Gasoline, Kerosene, Turpentine)
These volatile liquids can cause pneumonia if aspirated or inhaled. The signs of toxicity are vomiting, difficulty of breathing, tremors, convulsions and coma. Death is by respiratory failure.
Treatment: Do not induce vomiting. Administer an ounce or two of mineral oil, olive oil or vegetable oil by mouth; then follow it in thirty minutes with Glauber's salt. Be prepared to administer artificial respiration.
Garbage Poisoning (Food Poisoning)
Food poisoning is common, as dogs are notorious scavengers and come into contact with carrion, decomposing foods, animal manure and other noxious substances (some of which are listed in DIGESTIVE SYSTEM: Common Causes of Diarrhea). Signs of poisoning begin with vomiting and pain in the abdomen; they are followed in severe cases by diarrhea (often bloody) in two to six hours. If the problem is complicated by bacterial infection, shock may develop. Mild cases recover in a day or two.
Treatment: Induce vomiting. Afterward, coat the intestines to delay or prevent absorption. The condition may require antibiotics. (See also NERVOUS SYSTEM: Botulism.)Chocolate Poisoning
All dogs like chocolate, but chocolate can be dangerous. Chocolate contains a caffeine like alkaloid called theobromine. While not toxic to people in the amounts present in commercial foods, theobromine in these amounts can be quite harmful to the dog.
Signs of chocolate toxicity occur within hours after the dog ingests the chocolate. They include vomiting, diarrhea, increased heart rate, rapid breathing, muscle tremors, seizures and coma.
A small dog weighing five to ten pounds can die after eating four to sixteen ounces of milk chocolate; a medium-sized dog weighing twenty to forty pounds can die after eating sixteen to thirty-two ounces; a larger dog after eating about two pounds. Individual variations do occur. Unsweetened chocolate (used for baking) contains higher concentrations of theobromine and is therefore more toxic. A large dog can die after eating just four ounces.
Treatment: If you know your dog has eaten chocolate, induce vomiting (see Vomiting, How to Induce). If two or more hours have passed, administer activated charcoal to prevent the toxin from becoming absorbed.
Don't feed your dog chocolates. To prevent accidental ingestion, keep chocolate candy in the refrigerator.
Toad Poisoning - Since all toads have a bad taste, dogs who mouth them slobber, spit and drool. In southern states a tropical toad (Bujo marinus) secretes a potent toxin that appears to affect the heart and circulation of dogs, bringing on death in as short a time as fifteen minutes. There are twelve species of Rufo toads worldwide.
Symptoms in dogs depend upon the toxicity of the toad and the amount of poison absorbed. Signs vary from merely slobbering to convulsions and death.
Treatment: Flush your dog's mouth out with a garden hose and attempt to induce vomiting. Be prepared to administer artificial respiration.
People Medicines
Veterinarians frequently are called because a dog has swallowed pills intended for the owner, or has eaten too many dog pills. (Some dog pills are flavored to encourage dogs to eat them.) Drugs most often involved are antihistamines, sleeping pills, diet pills, heart preparations and vitamins.
Treatment: Induce vomiting
This chemical, used as a rat poison, is mixed with cereal, bran and other rat feeds. It is so potent that cats and dogs can be poisoned just by eating the dead rodent. The onset is sudden and begins with vomiting followed by excitation, straining to urinate or defecate, an aimless staggering gait, atypical fits or true convulsions and then collapse. Seizures are not triggered by external stimuli as are those of strychnine poisoning.
Treatment: Immediately after the dog ingests the poison, induce vomiting. Care and handling is the same as for strychnine.
Arsenic
Arsenic is combined with metaldehyde in slug and snail baits, and may appear in ant poisons, weed killers and insecticides. Arsenic is also a common Impurity found in many chemicals. Death can occur quickly before there is time to observe the symptoms. In more protracted cases the signs are thirst, drooling, vomiting, staggering, intense abdominal pain, cramps, diarrhea, paralysis and death. The breath of the dog will have a strong smell of garlic.
Treatment: Induce vomiting. A specific antidote is available but requires professional use. Metaldehyde - This poison (often combined with arsenic) is used commonly in rat, snail and slug baits. The signs of toxicity are excitation, drooling and slobbering, uncoordinated gait, muscle tremors and weakness that leads to inability to stand in a few hours. The tremors are not triggered by external stimuli.
Treatment: Immediately after the dog ingests the poison, induce vomiting. The care and handling are the same as for strychnine.
Lead
Lead is found in insecticides and is a base for many paints used commercially. Intoxication occurs primarily in puppies and young dogs that chew on substances coated with a lead paint. Other sources of lead are linoleum, batteries, plumbing materials, putty, lead foil, solder, golf balls and some roofing materials. Lead poisoning can occur in older dogs after ingestion of insecticides containing lead. A chronic form does occur.
Acute poisoning begins with abdominal colic and vomiting. A variety of central nervous system signs are possible. They include fits, uncoordinated gait, excitation, continuous barking, attacks of hysteria, weakness, stupor and blindness. Chewing and champing fits might be mistaken for the encephalitis of distemper, especially in young dogs.
Treatment: When ingestion is recent, induce vomiting. Otherwise, coat the bowel as described above. Specific antidotes are available through your veterinarian.
Phosphorus
This chemical is present in rat and roach poisons, fireworks, matches and matchboxes. A poisoned dog's breath may have a garlic odor. The first signs of intoxication are vomiting and diarrhea. They may be followed by a free interval, then by recurrent vomiting, cramps, and pain in the abdomen, convulsions and coma. There is no specific antidote. Treat as you would for strychnine.
Zinc Phosphide
This substance also is found in rat poisons. Intoxication causes central nervous system depression, labored breathing, vomiting (often of blood), weakness, convulsions and death. There is no specific antidote. Treat as you would for strychnine.
Warfarin (Decon, Pindone)
Warfarin is incorporated into grain feeds for use as a rat and mouse poison. It causes death by interfering with the blood clotting mechanism. This leads to spontaneous bleeding. There are no observable signs of warfarin poisoning until the dog begins to pass blood in the stool or urine, bleeds from the nose or develops hemorrhages beneath the gums and skin. The dog may be found dead with no apparent cause. A single dose of warfarin is not as serious as repeated doses.
Treatment: Induce vomiting. Vitamin K (for clotting) is a specific antidote. It is given intramuscularly (or in cases where there are no symptoms it can be given by mouth as a preventative).
Antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol)
Poisoning with antifreeze is not uncommon because ethylene glycol has a sweet taste that appeals to dogs and cats. In dogs, a toxic dose is one half teaspoonful per pound body weight. Signs of toxicity, which appear suddenly, are vomiting, uncoordinated gait (seems "drunk"), weakness, mental depression, coma and death in twelve to thirty-six hours. Convulsions are unusual. Dogs that recover from the acute phase may have damage to the kidneys and go on to kidney failure.
Treatment: Induce vomiting. Coat the bowel to prevent further absorption. Intensive care in an animal hospital may prevent kidney complications.
Organophosphates and Carbamates
These substances are used on dogs to kill fleas and other parasites. The common ones are dichlorvos, ectoral and sevin, but there are others. They also are used in garden sprays and in some dewormers. Improper application of insecticides to the dog can lead to absorption of a toxic dose through the skin. These drugs effect the nervous system primarily. For more information, see SKIN: Insecticides.
Treatment: For topical insecticides, bathe your dog immediately using warm soapy water to remove residual compounds from the coat. Call your veterinarian.
Chlorinated Hydrocarbons
These compounds, like the organophosphates, are incorporated into some insecticide preparations for use on the dog. The common products in veterinary use are chiordane, toxaphene, lindane and methoxychior. The treatment is the same as for organophosphates.
Corrosives (Acid and Alkali)
Corrosives and caustics are found in household cleaners, drain decloggers and commercial solvents. They cause burns of the mouth, esophagus and stomach. Severe cases are associated with acute perforation, or late stricture, of the esophagus and stomach.
Treatment: If acid is ingested, rinse out your dog's mouth. Give an antacid (Milk of Magnesia or Pepto-Bismol) at the rate of one to two teaspoons per five pounds body weight. If an alkali, use vinegar or lemon juice. Vinegar is mixed one part to four parts of water. The amount to give is judged by the size of the dog. Do not induce vomiting; this could result in rupture of the stomach or burns of the esophagus.
Petroleum Products (Gasoline, Kerosene, Turpentine)
These volatile liquids can cause pneumonia if aspirated or inhaled. The signs of toxicity are vomiting, difficulty of breathing, tremors, convulsions and coma. Death is by respiratory failure.
Treatment: Do not induce vomiting. Administer an ounce or two of mineral oil, olive oil or vegetable oil by mouth; then follow it in thirty minutes with Glauber's salt. Be prepared to administer artificial respiration.
Garbage Poisoning (Food Poisoning)
Food poisoning is common, as dogs are notorious scavengers and come into contact with carrion, decomposing foods, animal manure and other noxious substances (some of which are listed in DIGESTIVE SYSTEM: Common Causes of Diarrhea). Signs of poisoning begin with vomiting and pain in the abdomen; they are followed in severe cases by diarrhea (often bloody) in two to six hours. If the problem is complicated by bacterial infection, shock may develop. Mild cases recover in a day or two.
Treatment: Induce vomiting. Afterward, coat the intestines to delay or prevent absorption. The condition may require antibiotics. (See also NERVOUS SYSTEM: Botulism.)Chocolate Poisoning
All dogs like chocolate, but chocolate can be dangerous. Chocolate contains a caffeine like alkaloid called theobromine. While not toxic to people in the amounts present in commercial foods, theobromine in these amounts can be quite harmful to the dog.
Signs of chocolate toxicity occur within hours after the dog ingests the chocolate. They include vomiting, diarrhea, increased heart rate, rapid breathing, muscle tremors, seizures and coma.
A small dog weighing five to ten pounds can die after eating four to sixteen ounces of milk chocolate; a medium-sized dog weighing twenty to forty pounds can die after eating sixteen to thirty-two ounces; a larger dog after eating about two pounds. Individual variations do occur. Unsweetened chocolate (used for baking) contains higher concentrations of theobromine and is therefore more toxic. A large dog can die after eating just four ounces.
Treatment: If you know your dog has eaten chocolate, induce vomiting (see Vomiting, How to Induce). If two or more hours have passed, administer activated charcoal to prevent the toxin from becoming absorbed.
Don't feed your dog chocolates. To prevent accidental ingestion, keep chocolate candy in the refrigerator.
Toad Poisoning - Since all toads have a bad taste, dogs who mouth them slobber, spit and drool. In southern states a tropical toad (Bujo marinus) secretes a potent toxin that appears to affect the heart and circulation of dogs, bringing on death in as short a time as fifteen minutes. There are twelve species of Rufo toads worldwide.
Symptoms in dogs depend upon the toxicity of the toad and the amount of poison absorbed. Signs vary from merely slobbering to convulsions and death.
Treatment: Flush your dog's mouth out with a garden hose and attempt to induce vomiting. Be prepared to administer artificial respiration.
People Medicines
Veterinarians frequently are called because a dog has swallowed pills intended for the owner, or has eaten too many dog pills. (Some dog pills are flavored to encourage dogs to eat them.) Drugs most often involved are antihistamines, sleeping pills, diet pills, heart preparations and vitamins.
Treatment: Induce vomiting
Dog Poison - FIRST AID
If you think that your dog may have been poisoned, the first thing to do is try to identify the poison. Most products containing chemicals are labeled for identification. Read the label. If this does not give you a clue to its possible toxicity, call the Poison Control Center.
Poison Control Centers are located throughout the United States and Canada. All available information on the toxic ingredients in thousands of medicines, insecticides, pesticides and other registered commercial products has been placed confidentially in the centers by the government in these Poison Control Centers. It is estimated that 1,500 new items are added each month. The local Poison Control Center's telephone number is listed in the front of most telephone directories. Alternately, you can call the emergency room of your local hospital and ask them to request the information that you require.
The first step in treatment is to eliminate the poison from your dog's stomach by making it vomit. The second step is to delay absorption of the poison from the dog's intestinal tract by coating it with a substance that binds it. This is followed by a laxative to speed elimination.
Note: Do not induce vomiting or give charcoal by mouth if your dog is severely depressed, comatose, unable to swallow or experiencing seizures. Before proceeding, consult Vomiting, How to Induce in this chapter.
How to Delay or Prevent Absorption
1.Mix activated charcoal (one tablet to 10-cc water). Give one teaspoonful per two pounds body weight and follow with a pint of water. Depending upon the dog's condition, this may need to be given by stomach tube. Veterinary assistance usually is required.
2. Thirty minutes later, give sodium sulphate (Glauber's salt), one teaspoonful per ten pounds body weight, or Milk of Magnesia, one teaspoonful per five pounds body weight.
Note:If these agents are not available, coat the bowel with milk, egg whites or vegetable oil and give a warm water enema.
If your dog has a poisonous substance on the skin or coat, wash it well with soap and water or give a complete bath in lukewarm (not cold) water, as described in the SKIN chapter. Even if the substance is not irritating to the skin, it should be removed. Otherwise, the dog may lick it off and swallow it. Soak gasoline and oil stains with mineral or vegetable oil. Work in well. Then wash with a mild detergent, such as Ivory soap.
When signs of nervous system involvement begin to show, the dog is in deep trouble. At this point, your main objective is to get your dog to a veterinarian as quickly as possible. Try to bring with you a sample of vomitus, or better yet the poison in its original container. If the dog is convulsing, unconscious or not breathing, see Shock and Artificial Respiration. (Also see NERVOUS SYSTEM:Fits).
The poisons discussed below are included because they are among the most frequently seen by veterinarians. Strychnine - Strychnine is used as a rat, mouse and mole poison. It is available commercially as coated pellets dyed purple, red or green. Signs of poisoning are so typical that the diagnosis can be made almost at once. Onset is sudden (less than two hours). The first signs are agitation, excitability and apprehension. They are followed rather quickly by intensely painful tetanic seizures that last about sixty seconds, during which the dog throws the head back, can't breathe and turns blue. The slightest stimulation, such as tapping the dog or clapping the hands, starts a seizure. This characteristic response is used to make the diagnosis. Other signs associated with nervous system involvement are tremors, champing, drooling, uncoordinated muscle spasms, collapse and paddling of the legs.
Seizures caused by strychnine and other central nervous system toxins sometimes are misdiagnosed as epilepsy. This would be a mistake as immediate veterinary attention is necessary. Epileptic seizures are self-limited; the signs usually appear in a certain order, and each attack is the same. They are over before the dog can get to a veterinarian. Usually they are not considered emergencies (see NERVOUS SYSTEM: Epilepsy).
Treatment: With signs of central nervous involvement, don't take time to induce vomiting. It is important to avoid loud noises or unnecessary handling that trigger a seizure. Cover your dog with a coat or blanket and drive to the nearest veterinary clinic.
If your dog is showing signs of poisoning, is alert and able to swallow and hasn't vomited, induce vomiting as discussed above.
Poison Control Centers are located throughout the United States and Canada. All available information on the toxic ingredients in thousands of medicines, insecticides, pesticides and other registered commercial products has been placed confidentially in the centers by the government in these Poison Control Centers. It is estimated that 1,500 new items are added each month. The local Poison Control Center's telephone number is listed in the front of most telephone directories. Alternately, you can call the emergency room of your local hospital and ask them to request the information that you require.
The first step in treatment is to eliminate the poison from your dog's stomach by making it vomit. The second step is to delay absorption of the poison from the dog's intestinal tract by coating it with a substance that binds it. This is followed by a laxative to speed elimination.
Note: Do not induce vomiting or give charcoal by mouth if your dog is severely depressed, comatose, unable to swallow or experiencing seizures. Before proceeding, consult Vomiting, How to Induce in this chapter.
How to Delay or Prevent Absorption
1.Mix activated charcoal (one tablet to 10-cc water). Give one teaspoonful per two pounds body weight and follow with a pint of water. Depending upon the dog's condition, this may need to be given by stomach tube. Veterinary assistance usually is required.
2. Thirty minutes later, give sodium sulphate (Glauber's salt), one teaspoonful per ten pounds body weight, or Milk of Magnesia, one teaspoonful per five pounds body weight.
Note:If these agents are not available, coat the bowel with milk, egg whites or vegetable oil and give a warm water enema.
If your dog has a poisonous substance on the skin or coat, wash it well with soap and water or give a complete bath in lukewarm (not cold) water, as described in the SKIN chapter. Even if the substance is not irritating to the skin, it should be removed. Otherwise, the dog may lick it off and swallow it. Soak gasoline and oil stains with mineral or vegetable oil. Work in well. Then wash with a mild detergent, such as Ivory soap.
When signs of nervous system involvement begin to show, the dog is in deep trouble. At this point, your main objective is to get your dog to a veterinarian as quickly as possible. Try to bring with you a sample of vomitus, or better yet the poison in its original container. If the dog is convulsing, unconscious or not breathing, see Shock and Artificial Respiration. (Also see NERVOUS SYSTEM:Fits).
The poisons discussed below are included because they are among the most frequently seen by veterinarians. Strychnine - Strychnine is used as a rat, mouse and mole poison. It is available commercially as coated pellets dyed purple, red or green. Signs of poisoning are so typical that the diagnosis can be made almost at once. Onset is sudden (less than two hours). The first signs are agitation, excitability and apprehension. They are followed rather quickly by intensely painful tetanic seizures that last about sixty seconds, during which the dog throws the head back, can't breathe and turns blue. The slightest stimulation, such as tapping the dog or clapping the hands, starts a seizure. This characteristic response is used to make the diagnosis. Other signs associated with nervous system involvement are tremors, champing, drooling, uncoordinated muscle spasms, collapse and paddling of the legs.
Seizures caused by strychnine and other central nervous system toxins sometimes are misdiagnosed as epilepsy. This would be a mistake as immediate veterinary attention is necessary. Epileptic seizures are self-limited; the signs usually appear in a certain order, and each attack is the same. They are over before the dog can get to a veterinarian. Usually they are not considered emergencies (see NERVOUS SYSTEM: Epilepsy).
Treatment: With signs of central nervous involvement, don't take time to induce vomiting. It is important to avoid loud noises or unnecessary handling that trigger a seizure. Cover your dog with a coat or blanket and drive to the nearest veterinary clinic.
If your dog is showing signs of poisoning, is alert and able to swallow and hasn't vomited, induce vomiting as discussed above.
Dog Poison Care
A poison is any substance harmful to the body. Animal baits are palatable poisons that encourage ingestion. This makes them an obvious choice for intentional poisoning.
Dogs are curious by nature and have a tendency to hunt small game, or explore out-of-the-way places such as woodpiles, weed thickets and storage ports. This puts them into contact with insects, dead animals and toxic plants. It also means that in many cases of suspected poisoning the actual agent will be unknown. The great variety of potentially poisonous plants and shrubs makes identification difficult or impossible unless the owner has direct knowledge that the dog has eaten a certain plant or product. Most cases suspected of being malicious poisoning actually are not.
In some types of vegetation, only certain parts of the plant are toxic. In others, all parts are poisonous. Ingestion causes a wide range of symptoms. They include mouth irritation, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, hallucination, seizures, coma and death. Other plant substances cause skin rash. Some toxic plants have specific pharmacological actions that are used in medicines.
The following tables of toxic plants, shrubs and trees are included for reference.
Poisonous Houseplants
Toxic Houseplants:
A. That give rash after contact with the skin or mouth:
Chrysanthemum
Poinsettia
Creeping fig
Weeping fig
Pot mum > might produce dermatitis
Spider mum > might produce dermatitis
B. That are irritating to mucus membranes (toxic oxalates); the mouth especially gets swollen; painful tongue; ore lips:
Arrowhead vine
Boston ivy
Collodium
Drunk cane
Emerald duke
Heart leaf (philodendrum)
Marble queen
Majesty
Neththytis ivy
Pathos
Red princess
Saddle leaf (philodendrum)
Split leaf (philodendrum)
C. That may contain a wide variety of poisons. Most cause vomiting, abdominal pain, cramps. Some cause tremors, heart and respiratory and/or kidney problems, which are difficult for owners to interpret:
Amaryllis
Elephant ears
Pot mum
Asparagus fern
Glocal ivy
Ripple ivy
Azalea
Heart ivy
Spider mum
Bird of paradise
Ivy
Sprangeri fern
Creeping Charlie
Jerusalem cherry
Umbrella plant
Crown of thorns
Needlepoint ivy
Outdoor Plants with Toxic Effects
A. Outdoor plants that produce vomiting and diarrhea in some cases:
Delphinium
Poke weed
Indian tobacco
Daffodil
Bittersweet
Wisteria Castor beanwoody
SoapberryIndian turnip
Ground cherry Skunk cabbage
Foxglove Larkspur
B. Trees and shrubs that are poisonous and may produce vomiting, abdominal pain and in some cases diarrhea:
Horse chestnut
Western yew
Apricot
Buckeye
English holly almond
Rain tree
Peach cherry
Monkey pod
Wild cherry
American yew
Bird of paradise
Japanese plum
English yew
Black locust
Balsam pear
Mock orange
Privet
C. Outdoor plants with varied toxic effect:
Rhubarb
Buttercup
Moonseed
Spinach
Nightshade
Mayapple
Sunburned
Poison hemlock
Dutchman's potatoes
Jimsonweed
Tomato vine
Pigweed
Mescal bean
Locoweed
Water hemlock
Lupine
Mushrooms trumpet
Dologeton
Angel's Jasmine
Matrimony vine
D. Hallucinogens:
Marijuana
Nutmeg
Peyote
Morning glory
Periwinkle
Locoweed
E. Outdoor plants that produce convulsions:
Chinaberry
Moonweed
Water hemlock
Coriaria
Nux vomica
Dogs are curious by nature and have a tendency to hunt small game, or explore out-of-the-way places such as woodpiles, weed thickets and storage ports. This puts them into contact with insects, dead animals and toxic plants. It also means that in many cases of suspected poisoning the actual agent will be unknown. The great variety of potentially poisonous plants and shrubs makes identification difficult or impossible unless the owner has direct knowledge that the dog has eaten a certain plant or product. Most cases suspected of being malicious poisoning actually are not.
In some types of vegetation, only certain parts of the plant are toxic. In others, all parts are poisonous. Ingestion causes a wide range of symptoms. They include mouth irritation, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, hallucination, seizures, coma and death. Other plant substances cause skin rash. Some toxic plants have specific pharmacological actions that are used in medicines.
The following tables of toxic plants, shrubs and trees are included for reference.
Poisonous Houseplants
Toxic Houseplants:
A. That give rash after contact with the skin or mouth:
Chrysanthemum
Poinsettia
Creeping fig
Weeping fig
Pot mum > might produce dermatitis
Spider mum > might produce dermatitis
B. That are irritating to mucus membranes (toxic oxalates); the mouth especially gets swollen; painful tongue; ore lips:
Arrowhead vine
Boston ivy
Collodium
Drunk cane
Emerald duke
Heart leaf (philodendrum)
Marble queen
Majesty
Neththytis ivy
Pathos
Red princess
Saddle leaf (philodendrum)
Split leaf (philodendrum)
C. That may contain a wide variety of poisons. Most cause vomiting, abdominal pain, cramps. Some cause tremors, heart and respiratory and/or kidney problems, which are difficult for owners to interpret:
Amaryllis
Elephant ears
Pot mum
Asparagus fern
Glocal ivy
Ripple ivy
Azalea
Heart ivy
Spider mum
Bird of paradise
Ivy
Sprangeri fern
Creeping Charlie
Jerusalem cherry
Umbrella plant
Crown of thorns
Needlepoint ivy
Outdoor Plants with Toxic Effects
A. Outdoor plants that produce vomiting and diarrhea in some cases:
Delphinium
Poke weed
Indian tobacco
Daffodil
Bittersweet
Wisteria Castor beanwoody
SoapberryIndian turnip
Ground cherry Skunk cabbage
Foxglove Larkspur
B. Trees and shrubs that are poisonous and may produce vomiting, abdominal pain and in some cases diarrhea:
Horse chestnut
Western yew
Apricot
Buckeye
English holly almond
Rain tree
Peach cherry
Monkey pod
Wild cherry
American yew
Bird of paradise
Japanese plum
English yew
Black locust
Balsam pear
Mock orange
Privet
C. Outdoor plants with varied toxic effect:
Rhubarb
Buttercup
Moonseed
Spinach
Nightshade
Mayapple
Sunburned
Poison hemlock
Dutchman's potatoes
Jimsonweed
Tomato vine
Pigweed
Mescal bean
Locoweed
Water hemlock
Lupine
Mushrooms trumpet
Dologeton
Angel's Jasmine
Matrimony vine
D. Hallucinogens:
Marijuana
Nutmeg
Peyote
Morning glory
Periwinkle
Locoweed
E. Outdoor plants that produce convulsions:
Chinaberry
Moonweed
Water hemlock
Coriaria
Nux vomica
Puppy Care
Points to remember:
Try to bring a puppy home only after it is eight weeks old. By then it must have had its Primary Vaccination against Parvo and other diseases. Insist on the immunisation record given by the Vet to the breeder. If it is a dog with a Pedigree insist on the certificate and its transfer to your name.Remember to ask questions about the feeding schedule.
Feeding Schedule
Readymade dry food of high quality is available in India and if you can afford it, that is the food of choice. Not only does it contain the right proportions of protein, fat and carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals, but it is also very convenient - no cooking is required. On the other hand you may require commercial preparations of baby food, as advised by the breeder. Remember to give the right supplements of Calcium and Vitamins if you are not giving dry food.
House Training
When you being a new puppy home, most often it will not already be housebroken. As with children, the only thing you need to house break your puppy is patience, and a lot of it. As soon as the puppy has been fed, he should be taken out - puppies often relieve themselves right after they eat, and so taking them our right after eating reinforces the idea that they should only relieve themselves outside.
An alternative method you might want to try is placing old sheets of newspaper on the floor. Understand though, that this method takes plenty of time and patience, so don't give up. Every time the puppy relieves itself in the house, cover the mess with newspaper, and allow the puppy to investigate it (for investigate it they will, if there is even an iota of puppy-ish-ness in them). Also, leave newspaper lying on the floor so that once the puppy recognizes the smell, it will use only the newspaper. To help it get the idea, place the puppy on the newspaper after it has eaten (and remember the magic word - patience, because puppies like to run about after they eat).
Children and puppies should always be supervized. Never leave them alone with each other. Children can be unknowingly cruel to dogs (pulling whiskers, tail, etc.) and puppies can unwittingly retaliate by biting, which you certainly don't want.
Whatever behaviour you eventually want from your puppy, you must enforce from the start. If you dont want the grown up dog to be allowed in the bedroom, or sit on your living room couches, don't let them do so as puppies. On thier first few nights in your house, puppies will be upset, and miss their littermates etc. Make sure they have a nice warm and safe place to sleep in. If you want, you can sleep near that area for the first night. If you don't want them to beg from the dining room table - don't feed them
while you eat at the table.
Above all, care for your puppy's health. Contact a local vet, and by all means, establish a good relationship. Your dog does not need to be ill to see the vet. The vet should see the dog while he is in good health, so he has something to compare the not well dog against, when you bring him in at other times. Make sure you are up to date on the puppy's shots. They can be expensive, but then, you decided to pay for them the day you decided to get the puppy. And as any dog lover will tell you - puppies are worth every penny you sepnd on them, and then some more.
Credits : Dogsindia
Try to bring a puppy home only after it is eight weeks old. By then it must have had its Primary Vaccination against Parvo and other diseases. Insist on the immunisation record given by the Vet to the breeder. If it is a dog with a Pedigree insist on the certificate and its transfer to your name.Remember to ask questions about the feeding schedule.
Feeding Schedule
Readymade dry food of high quality is available in India and if you can afford it, that is the food of choice. Not only does it contain the right proportions of protein, fat and carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals, but it is also very convenient - no cooking is required. On the other hand you may require commercial preparations of baby food, as advised by the breeder. Remember to give the right supplements of Calcium and Vitamins if you are not giving dry food.
House Training
When you being a new puppy home, most often it will not already be housebroken. As with children, the only thing you need to house break your puppy is patience, and a lot of it. As soon as the puppy has been fed, he should be taken out - puppies often relieve themselves right after they eat, and so taking them our right after eating reinforces the idea that they should only relieve themselves outside.
An alternative method you might want to try is placing old sheets of newspaper on the floor. Understand though, that this method takes plenty of time and patience, so don't give up. Every time the puppy relieves itself in the house, cover the mess with newspaper, and allow the puppy to investigate it (for investigate it they will, if there is even an iota of puppy-ish-ness in them). Also, leave newspaper lying on the floor so that once the puppy recognizes the smell, it will use only the newspaper. To help it get the idea, place the puppy on the newspaper after it has eaten (and remember the magic word - patience, because puppies like to run about after they eat).
Children and puppies should always be supervized. Never leave them alone with each other. Children can be unknowingly cruel to dogs (pulling whiskers, tail, etc.) and puppies can unwittingly retaliate by biting, which you certainly don't want.
Whatever behaviour you eventually want from your puppy, you must enforce from the start. If you dont want the grown up dog to be allowed in the bedroom, or sit on your living room couches, don't let them do so as puppies. On thier first few nights in your house, puppies will be upset, and miss their littermates etc. Make sure they have a nice warm and safe place to sleep in. If you want, you can sleep near that area for the first night. If you don't want them to beg from the dining room table - don't feed them
while you eat at the table.
Above all, care for your puppy's health. Contact a local vet, and by all means, establish a good relationship. Your dog does not need to be ill to see the vet. The vet should see the dog while he is in good health, so he has something to compare the not well dog against, when you bring him in at other times. Make sure you are up to date on the puppy's shots. They can be expensive, but then, you decided to pay for them the day you decided to get the puppy. And as any dog lover will tell you - puppies are worth every penny you sepnd on them, and then some more.
Credits : Dogsindia
How to Choose Your Puppy
Different breeds will have certain characteristics for which they were bred. Ask breeders at dog shows and look them up in breed books for further information. You must consider several things before deciding on a dog:
How much time can you spend with it? Dogs are social creatures. They will not be happy left out in the back yard alone. You must be committed to spending several hours a day with it.
What space can you provide for it? If you live in a small apartment, you must take this into consideration: many dogs will not do well unless you spend a good deal of effort in meeting their needs. Don't be fooled by size into thinking a dog will be OK in a small apartment -- A terrier for example requires a lot of exercise. Conversely, many Mastiffs are content tojust lie on the floor and do nothing at all while you are gone.
How much money can you set aside for it? Even if you get a dog from the shelter or otherwise inexpensively, you will have to buy food, pay for veterinary checkups, vaccinations and routine medical care over the lifetime of the dog. Not to mention replacing anything the dog may damage or destroy, or money for medical emergencies. Do you have the financial resources for this?
How much exercise can you give it? If your time is limited, you should look for smaller or less active dogs that can obtain enough exercise in your home or from short walks. Note that not all small dogs are less active, or larger dogs more active.
How much training can you do? Regardless of the dog you get, training will make your dog much more compatible with you and what you want to do. A trained dog can go to more places with you without disruption, and can be more easily a part of your life.
How much grooming can you do? How much hair are you prepared to have in your home? You should give serious consideration to these factors: some dogs shed little and require no grooming (clipping, stripping, etc); others shed little but require more grooming; others shed but do not require grooming; and still others both shed and require grooming. Do note that just about all dogs will require some nail clipping regardless of conditions. If you get a dog that requires regular grooming, are you prepared to pay for its grooming or learn to do it yourself and to do either regularly?
Which sex do you want, male or female? There are pros and cons to either sex, all of which are generalities and may or may not apply to a specific dog. By all means, if you have a preference, get the sex you want. If you are not sure, it really doesn't matter.
What characteristics do you want in a dog? Different breeds have been bred with specific purposes in mind. Dogs bred for scent, for racing, for retrieving, etc, will exhibit these traits. Consider which characteristics you would like and which will annoy you. Reading up on dogs in breed books (some are listed below) and talking to breeders will give you some idea of these kinds of characteristics. This also may be a reason to choose a purebred: characteristics in purebreds appear more reliably because of their consistent breeding. Do recognize, however, that dogs show individual personalities, and variety exists within each breed. Breeds are only a general indicator of what to expect.
Some questions to ask yourself:
What sort of exercise do I want to do with the dog? Walking? Jogging?
Do I want a dog that is bouncy and ready to go, or more relaxed?
Am I prepared for a dog with some protective tendencies? How about a dog with possible dog-aggression (because of its background or breed)?
Do I want an indiscriminantly friendly dog or one that is more reserved?
Do I want a dog that must be near me whenever possible or do I prefer a more independent nature?
Will I want a dog that readily accepts other animals (e.g., cats, rabbits, etc.)?
Am I interested in: obedience, agility, hunting, herding, coursing, showing, etc. with this dog?
Mixed Breed or Pedigree? While you can enjoy showing a dog with a good pedigree, in the show circuit, mixed breeds make equally lovable companions and are infact said to have more resistance to infections and they are freely available for adoption. But if you have decided on a breed, take the advice of people knowledgeble about the breed, choose a breeder whom you think is responsible and for heaven's sake don't buy the puppy just because it is available nearby or it is cheap!
Whatever the dog or puppy you choose to buy, please try not to buy them from "Puppy-Mills". In India, the sudden spurt in demand for puppies has led to a major problem - PUPPY THEFT. We at dogsindia have had personal experiences, and see the harrowing experience some others have gone through. One lady was even threatened by certain people. She tried to report the matter to higher authorities. So please try to get your puppy either from good homes, reliable owners and breeders, or adoption centres.
Credits : Dogsindia
How much time can you spend with it? Dogs are social creatures. They will not be happy left out in the back yard alone. You must be committed to spending several hours a day with it.
What space can you provide for it? If you live in a small apartment, you must take this into consideration: many dogs will not do well unless you spend a good deal of effort in meeting their needs. Don't be fooled by size into thinking a dog will be OK in a small apartment -- A terrier for example requires a lot of exercise. Conversely, many Mastiffs are content tojust lie on the floor and do nothing at all while you are gone.
How much money can you set aside for it? Even if you get a dog from the shelter or otherwise inexpensively, you will have to buy food, pay for veterinary checkups, vaccinations and routine medical care over the lifetime of the dog. Not to mention replacing anything the dog may damage or destroy, or money for medical emergencies. Do you have the financial resources for this?
How much exercise can you give it? If your time is limited, you should look for smaller or less active dogs that can obtain enough exercise in your home or from short walks. Note that not all small dogs are less active, or larger dogs more active.
How much training can you do? Regardless of the dog you get, training will make your dog much more compatible with you and what you want to do. A trained dog can go to more places with you without disruption, and can be more easily a part of your life.
How much grooming can you do? How much hair are you prepared to have in your home? You should give serious consideration to these factors: some dogs shed little and require no grooming (clipping, stripping, etc); others shed little but require more grooming; others shed but do not require grooming; and still others both shed and require grooming. Do note that just about all dogs will require some nail clipping regardless of conditions. If you get a dog that requires regular grooming, are you prepared to pay for its grooming or learn to do it yourself and to do either regularly?
Which sex do you want, male or female? There are pros and cons to either sex, all of which are generalities and may or may not apply to a specific dog. By all means, if you have a preference, get the sex you want. If you are not sure, it really doesn't matter.
What characteristics do you want in a dog? Different breeds have been bred with specific purposes in mind. Dogs bred for scent, for racing, for retrieving, etc, will exhibit these traits. Consider which characteristics you would like and which will annoy you. Reading up on dogs in breed books (some are listed below) and talking to breeders will give you some idea of these kinds of characteristics. This also may be a reason to choose a purebred: characteristics in purebreds appear more reliably because of their consistent breeding. Do recognize, however, that dogs show individual personalities, and variety exists within each breed. Breeds are only a general indicator of what to expect.
Some questions to ask yourself:
What sort of exercise do I want to do with the dog? Walking? Jogging?
Do I want a dog that is bouncy and ready to go, or more relaxed?
Am I prepared for a dog with some protective tendencies? How about a dog with possible dog-aggression (because of its background or breed)?
Do I want an indiscriminantly friendly dog or one that is more reserved?
Do I want a dog that must be near me whenever possible or do I prefer a more independent nature?
Will I want a dog that readily accepts other animals (e.g., cats, rabbits, etc.)?
Am I interested in: obedience, agility, hunting, herding, coursing, showing, etc. with this dog?
Mixed Breed or Pedigree? While you can enjoy showing a dog with a good pedigree, in the show circuit, mixed breeds make equally lovable companions and are infact said to have more resistance to infections and they are freely available for adoption. But if you have decided on a breed, take the advice of people knowledgeble about the breed, choose a breeder whom you think is responsible and for heaven's sake don't buy the puppy just because it is available nearby or it is cheap!
Whatever the dog or puppy you choose to buy, please try not to buy them from "Puppy-Mills". In India, the sudden spurt in demand for puppies has led to a major problem - PUPPY THEFT. We at dogsindia have had personal experiences, and see the harrowing experience some others have gone through. One lady was even threatened by certain people. She tried to report the matter to higher authorities. So please try to get your puppy either from good homes, reliable owners and breeders, or adoption centres.
Credits : Dogsindia
Friday, September 7, 2007
Wednesday, September 5, 2007
De Worming Your Puppy / Adult Dog
Deworming
Due to worm transmission through mothers milk and eating habits of a puppy, deworming should be given regularly and follow as
1st deworming : at the age of 5 weeks
2nd deworming : at the age of 7 weeks
Repeat every month up to age of seven months and thereafter every 3 – 4 months.
Prior any vaccination and mating deworming is a most.
Due to worm transmission through mothers milk and eating habits of a puppy, deworming should be given regularly and follow as
1st deworming : at the age of 5 weeks
2nd deworming : at the age of 7 weeks
Repeat every month up to age of seven months and thereafter every 3 – 4 months.
Prior any vaccination and mating deworming is a most.
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Bringing Home a Puppy
Puppy’s first night
The first night in a new home can be lonely and frightening for a puppy. It has lost its mother, brothers and sisters and is in a new place, full of strange smell and faces.
For both your sake, it is necessary to reassure the puppy by giving it as much company as you can and making it as comfortable as possible.
Keep the pup warm and give it good food warm milk. Do not Give Cows Milk - Dilute the Milk by adding equal amount of water. Milk might irritate a Pups Digestive system and it might began loose motion.
A hot water bottle placed amongst the bedding will soothe the pup and give it something warm to nestle into .also place a tickling clock amongst the bedding to quickly quieted a crying pup .find out what the previous owner has been feeding the puppy so you can keep up a consistent diet.
Also Check the below sites for more information and check this blog archieves
The first night in a new home can be lonely and frightening for a puppy. It has lost its mother, brothers and sisters and is in a new place, full of strange smell and faces.
For both your sake, it is necessary to reassure the puppy by giving it as much company as you can and making it as comfortable as possible.
Keep the pup warm and give it good food warm milk. Do not Give Cows Milk - Dilute the Milk by adding equal amount of water. Milk might irritate a Pups Digestive system and it might began loose motion.
A hot water bottle placed amongst the bedding will soothe the pup and give it something warm to nestle into .also place a tickling clock amongst the bedding to quickly quieted a crying pup .find out what the previous owner has been feeding the puppy so you can keep up a consistent diet.
Also Check the below sites for more information and check this blog archieves
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